Bistro classics no. 3: Beef Goulash

 

Although some people might not consider this a 'bistro' classic and it is by no means an authentic version, it is still one of my favourite dishes from my childhood. So, I suppose I should call this my interpretation of Beef Goulash.

Goulash is primarily a soup, originating from Hungary. The main components always being beef, vegetables, onions and paprika. Researching this, I read some interesting tips about making the dish. 

1. The paprika (as much as 2 tbsp), should be added to the fat in which the onion has been browning. The meat should then be added to this paprika oil or lard to give a better flavour and ensure the spice does not burn.

2. The usual beef used for Goulash can be a variety of the tougher cuts such as shank or shin which require long, slow cooking. Keeping some fat on these cuts will ensure tenderness as it melts into the sauce.

3. Caraway seeds are often used, whole or ground and aromatic vegetables such as carrots, peppers and sometimes potatoes are added, especially starchy vegetables which thicken the sauce.

4. Vinegar or white wine may be added at the end to round out the flavour by balancing the sweet and spicy with a little sour. 

5. There are many regional variations on Goulash including adding sauerkraut and cream, kidney beans and using mutton and red wine.

A quick vegetable diversion:

In the UK, in Spring, we have a vegetable that is as revered as the first, tender stalks of asparagus in May and June. It is a hybrid of the brassica family and not easily found here in Vancouver. The picture above is broccolette or broccolini, not the purple sprouting kind I thought I had finally found. 

Broccolette is a cross between broccoli and Chinese Gai Lan which is why it has those long thin arms instead of the usual central head. Purple Sprouting Broccoli is sweet and delicate and very tender and many cookbooks will give you lists of how to prepare this simply to enjoy it's fine flavour, maybe lightly steamed and then dressed with some anchovy butter or poached in butter and oil with some salt and lemon juice. This is what I tried with my broccolette and although it was creamy and sweet due to the butter, it certainly didn't meet my initial expectations. The search continues. I did grow it here once, but it took a very long time (2 years) to produce any shoots. 

 

Back to the Goulash:

The dish came about through a decision to use some freezer food. Now we have a brand spanking new one, I wanted to start afresh with a partly empty freezer before I start filling it to capacity and beyond again. Two zip loc bags of what looked like beef were sitting at the bottom, some stewing beef and a piece of steak. I decided to make this version of Goulash, a thicker, more stew like variety to serve over some buttered noodles (or spaghetti) in this case. I very unconventionally used some red wine, Marsala, beef stock and a tin of tomatoes to season this. So, what makes it a Goulash? You can decide for yourself, but for me the essence is beef and lots of paprika, which gives it an interesting sweet, earthy taste with a touch of heat.

Recipe : My Beef Goulash

1 lb beef, (I used a mixture of stewing and top sirloin)

1 tbsp oil and 1 tsp butter

1 red onion, peeled and chopped

1 stick celery, chopped

1 large clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 green chili, sliced

1 orange bell pepper, seeded and sliced

1/2 leek, sliced

2 tbsp Paprika

1/4 cup red wine

1/4 cup Marsala

1 beef stock cube

1 small tin plum tomatoes

1 bay leaf

1/2 tsp salt

spaghetti for 2

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy pan over medium heat and add the beef, a few pieces at a time and fry on both sides until they are dark brown. Take your time and don't crowd the pan. You may need to do this in several batches.

Remove the meat and add the onions, garlic, chili, bell pepper, celery and leek and saute until the vegetables are soft and beginning to brown. Add the Paprika and stir well for a few moments. 

Return the beef to the pan with all other ingredients, bring to the boil then reduce heat to low- medium, cover and cook for about 1.5 - 2 hours. The Goulash should be quite thick so you may need to reduce by uncovering the pan and boiling rapidly for the last few minutes. Serve over spaghetti dusted with some more paprika.

Recipe : Butter braised broccolette

1 bunch broccolette 

2 tbsp butter

pinch of salt

Heat the butter until melted in a pan over medium heat and add the broccolette and salt.

Cover the pan and let the vegetable gently sweat for about 8 minutes until fairly soft. 

Serve with the juices poured over.