A future of fermented foods

 

I read many books and articles in magazines. Sometimes things stick in my mind, even just a few sentences. I recently read somewhere that fermented foods will be the new taste the whole world will embrace, the current  taste being processed and long before that something else I don't remember, logic dictating  maybe it was raw foods in their natural state.

This concept really hooked me. The idea that the whole world will awaken to a new idea, like a seed germinating, the roots beginning to spread and infiltrate until it's within everyones' psyche. To me, this idea is exciting  because it implies that we will all be moving towards a common goal and unity is such an important thing. Don't get me wrong, I love the diversity of the World, but when I read the science fiction novels I love so much, I really envy the stories about a world where everyone is equal and in harmony with each other and the Environment, however far from reality that may actually seem.

I used to watch American Idol until it began to get boring and remember one contestant commenting that she felt the world was on the brink of a new era. She felt the World was changing towards a kinder, more tolerant attitude and Simon Cowell, rather than scoffing as I was expecting, commented that Paula Abdul has been saying the same thing for years. This intrigued me and I began thinking about what I might feel. I can't say I feel the world is moving towards more tolerance and kindness, not after watching the events in the news every day, but I like the idea that something will change. 

I wonder how many other people were secretly hoping that parts of the Y2K threat would actually happen? A world without technology, where people start again from scratch, growing their own food and becoming reconnected with the land, this doesn't sound too terrible. Of course, the reality of fighting for your own plot and struggling to learn the basics would make the situation deadly and dire, but the fantasy was definitely attractive.

So, fermented foods. The reason the idea stayed with me was the concept of progression that it inspired. From processed foods that are working against nature to foods that are 'preserving' the natural for future use. I decided to start researching the terms 'processed' and 'fermented'. Processed, according to wikipedia :

"Food processing is the set of methods and techniques used to transform raw ingredients into food or to transform food into other forms for consumption by humans or animals either in the home or by the food processing industry. Food processing typically takes clean, harvested crops or butchered animal products and uses these to produce attractive, marketable and often long shelf-life food products. Similar processes are used to produce animal feed."

And fermented:

"Fermentation in food processing typically is the conversion of carbohydrates to alcohols and carbon dioxide or organic acids using yeasts, bacteria, or a combination thereof, under anaerobic conditions. A more restricted definition of fermentation is the chemical conversion of sugars into ethanol. The science of fermentation is known as zymurgy.

Fermentation usually implies that the action of microorganisms is desirable, and the process is used to produce alcoholic beverages such as wine, beer, and cider. Fermentation is also employed in the leavening of bread, and for preservation techniques to create lactic acid in sour foods such as sauerkraut, dry sausages, kimchi, yogurt, or vinegar (acetic acid) for use in pickling foods".

Although they both involve some kind of human interaction, fermentation is a much more natural process, helping the foods evolve or change naturally rather than changing the entire nature with chemicals. Pickles, alcohol, breads, soy and fish sauce are all examples of fermented foods. Fermentation is not without criticism, however, and some negative points include the fact that fermentation naturally produces alcohol and lactic acid as by-products which can be harmful. The loss of nutrients is also considered to be a disadvantage, as any food stored over a period of time starts to deteriorate. You can find the full article here. 

So what are the advantages of eating fermented foods? There are many, including decreasing  the stress on the pancreas and helping to prevent chronic illness. So, fermented foods, if they are the future, seem to have divided opinions between experts. I can't help but feel, however, that fermentation is a much better option than processed. If you need some convincing, read this.

How does all this relate to us, the people who cook and eat on a regular basis? The entire population of Korea seem to understand the principles as they have been enjoying fermented foods for many centuries, in fact they are a mainstay of their diets. Kimchee is perhaps the most well known internationally, but there are many other fermented foods that Koreans eat every day, you can find more information here.

So, after all the science talk, why did the article I read predict the fermented food taste was the future? Perhaps because the entire world is currently undergoing a 'back to nature' attitude. We have a renewed sense of the Environment and our connection to it and we are encouraged to do whatever we can to help preserve our already fractured eco-systems. I, for one, welcome the idea of buying fresh produce and preserving it for the leaner Winter months and enjoying the health benefits as well as the taste. Fermentation, to my mind, encourages a greater understanding of food and it's abilities to nourish us, perhaps a metaphor for our entire existence on this fragile planet.

It's been many months since I wrote the above and I have definitely noticed that there is indeed a shift towards fermentation happening. The name Sandor Katz, a well known self taught expert on all things fermented has become far better known. A few popular food publications have begun to run articles on fermentation and Jamie Oliver recently run an article on how to make your own vinegar even. Perhaps it was Katz who said the future of world food will be fermented, it seems he was on to something.

I tried a recipe for myself with disastrous results which became a good indication that fermenting is not as easy as simple pickling. Trying to create and grow good bacterias inevitably attracts the bad type also and you can say hello mold, goodbye project if the conditions are not just right.

Fermenting experiment no. 1 - Dilly beans

I tried this recipe mainly because I was attracted by the comment that they were good for Caesars, a drink I occasionally enjoy. After buying a huge bag of yellow beans at the farmers' market with little thought as to what I may use them for, this recipe seemed like my guilt-free salvation.

A full pound of beans was required, a lot considering each bean is as light as a feather. Most recipes for fermented foods are written with the expectation that you are preserving foods to eat later, during the Winter months perhaps and therefore are usually for large amounts.

A solution of water, salt, sugar. spices and herbs, including dill, (of course), onions and red pepper flakes is first prepared, heated and cooled as the base liquid.

The beans are added, the mixture covered and the magic alchemy of fermentation begins, the process by which the beans will preserve and become sour and crunchy.

I don't have an image of what was lurking under the cloth, too disgusted and hasty in my removal of it, but suffice to say it wasn't exactly pretty. The whole surface of the liquid had turned green and furry, not so much fermented as fungal. Many things may have been at fault. Too warm an environment, not enough salt, there are a lot of possibilities and the only way to discover what happened is to experiment. Watch this space...