The ultimate pulled pork sandwich

The phrase 'keep it simple' has never resonated well with me. Trying to be overly ambitious, I usually complicate things to such an extreme state, I am left flustered and stressed. For a friend's barbecue on Saturday, I tried to be sensible by creating pulled pork sandwiches from a huge piece of pork shoulder that needed immediate cooking due to spending days sitting in a marinade. Easy, I thought. What transpired was an ultimate sandwich that Heston Blumenthal would have trouble recreating.

The meat marinated for 24 hours in a complicated marinade including pomegranate molasses and soy sauce. It then rested for a further 24 hours in the fridge before a 4.5 hour roast with some root vegetables underneath for flavour. (These were eventually used in the home made barbecue sauce). All this cooking rendered the meat incredibly tender and literally falling from the bone, this is pulled pork after all, being able to shred the meat with two forks is a must.

After cooking for such a long time, the juices that had gathered underneath were mouthwatering. Full of the marinade, the pork goodness, onion, carrot and leek caramelization, I could have poured them into a cup and drank them like wine. Pomegranate molasses is my new favourite ingredient. Able to impart the most luscious, unique flavour, it's sour, bitter and sweet all at the same time and still pronounces itself strongly even when mingled with other flavours. The dusty old bottle that sat at the back of the cupboard for so long, poor thing, will finally see the sunshine.

Look away now if you're of a healthy or vegetarian bent. This is the prize of cooking pork: the skin or good ole' crackling as we call it in the UK. It must be crisp to shine. Not just a little crisp, but really crisp. This I achieved with the use of the microwave. Having covered the pork with foil to keep it succulent, the skin had no way to become the thing of beauty it so deserves. Popping it in the microwave for 2 minutes produces this: intensely flavoured and crisp enough to break your teeth.

And now, the absolutely essential component for a pulled pork sandwich, the coleslaw.  This version included roasted almonds to give it some nutty crunch, slivers of dried apricot for a little fruitiness and sweetness and a homemade dressing, which consisted of mayonnaise mixed with a little vinegar for tang and some sugar to sweeten and round out. Also, a few radishes to provide a surprising burst of peppery heat.

Toasting anything in a dry pan is always a challenge, whether it be nuts, spices or seeds. A moment too long and the whole thing is bitter and inedible. These, however, were perfect. The nuttiness intensifies when roasted (like any nut) and adds crunch.

The really complicated bit, however, was the home made barbecue sauce. Not wanting to waste the incredibly tasty marinade, I mixed it with the juices from the pork, the vegetables, a tin of tomatoes and some sour cream to temper. It was sublime. After reducing and thickening for over an hour, it had the perfect balance of sweet, sour and tangy. My friend wants me to recreate the entire dish again on Saturday for his birthday barbecue and I just know that I will struggle to make it equally good. Then again, perhaps it will be better. The recipes are all below, good luck and allow yourself 2 days.

For about 6 generous sandwiches

Recipe : Marinated pork shoulder (Marinade adapted from Bon Appetit magazine, June 2011)

1 6lb pork shoulder with bone

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup orange juice

1/2 tbsp Sriracha sauce

1/2 tbsp pomegranate molasses

2 star anise

1 inch piece ginger, peeled and chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly slice

Mix all the marinade ingredients together and pour over the pork, cover and refrigerate for 24 hours, turning several times.

Remove the pork from the marinade and place on a clean dish, cover the pork and refrigerate again or cook straight away. Pour the marinade into a dish, cover and refrigerate.

Preheat the oven to 425oF and cook the pork, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

After this time, reduce the oven heat to 325oF. Remove the pork onto a board.

On a fresh baking sheet, (there may be some residual marinade that has burnt on the original sheet), lay 1 onion, sliced into thin rounds, 1 leek, sliced into thin rounds and 1 carrot, peeled and sliced into rounds, along with a bay leaf or two. Place the pork on top and cover with a double layer of foil. Roast in the oven for a further 3.5 - 5.5 hours. (Check how tender it is after 3.5, it may be good enough).

When you are happy with the pork's tenderness, remove from the oven and transfer all the pork to a plate, cover and set aside.

Recipe : Barbecue sauce

The remaining marinade

The juices and vegetables from the pork roasting dish

1 tin plum tomatoes

4 tbsp sour cream

Pour the marinade, juices, vegetables and tomatoes into a heavy based pan over medium - high heat and let it cook, bubbling away until it is thickened. Keep stirring to prevent it sticking to the bottom of the pan. This can take up to one hour, so keep an eye on it. 

Taste the sauce. It should be very rich and flavourful. If you feel it needs mellowing, add some or all of the sour cream to your taste. (Remember the meat will be mixed with it, which will dilute the taste slightly).

Using two forks, pull the pork into strands and mix well with the barbecue sauce. Keep warm while you make the coleslaw.

Recipe : Coleslaw 

This is best made just before eating to retain the crunch essential to counterbalance the soft meat.

1/2 red cabbage, very thinly shredded

2 radishes, thinly sliced

4 dried apricots, thinly sliced

2 tbsp almond slivers, dry fried in a pan over medium heat until golden brown and fragrant

4 tbsp mayonnaise

1 tsp rice wine vinegar

1/2 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp sugar

4 chives, sliced thinly

Mix the cabbage, radishes, apricots, almonds and chives together in a bowl. 

Mix the mayonnaise, wine vinegar, mustard and sugar together in another bowl and pour over the cabbage mixture. Stir well and allow to sit for a few moments.

To assemble your sandwich.

6 bread products. (The sky is the limit for choice here, choose whatever you like). I used small ciabatta buns.

On to each bun, place a large spoonful of pork with sauce, top with a large spoonful of coleslaw, sandwich with the second piece of bread, eat and sigh contentedly, many times.

Alternative recipe coleslaw

As I mentioned earlier, I was required to re-create this entire production for the same friend's birthday bbq. I followed my own recipes and was pleased that everything turned out in a very similar fashion. Many compliments to the chef were given, which I received with a vast amount of pride. On Neil's recommendation, however, I switched up the coleslaw recipe slightly, substituting white cabbage for red and adding some farmer's market produce bought that morning. It was much prettier, crunchier and fresh tasting.

 

So, instead of the red cabbage, I used a white variety.

I added 3 sliced raw squash blossoms.

I also added 4 chives, finely sliced along with 3 chive flowers, the petals separated and sprinkled on top.

Everything else remained the same as the previous recipe.