Since coming to live in Vancouver I have discovered many foods. Poutine, Yaki Soba and sushi to name a few. But there have also been more humble discoveries. I don't recall ever eating or cooking flank steak in the UK and can't quite recall how I first stumbled upon it here, but I'm so glad I did. It requires a different cooking and cutting technique to other steaks to maintain it's juiciness, but is well worth knowing as the flavour is wonderful.
In North America, I have seen this cut everywhere from butchers' shops to fine dining restaurants. Maybe it's something to do with the meat resurgence that is happening right now, with North American butchers trying hard to educate the public on lesser known cuts of beef instead of the big hitters such as tenderloin and rib eye. Old habits and tastes die hard, however and I was still reluctant to order this in a fine steak house in Portland, Oregon. The Porterhouse sounded so lavish and extravagant in comparison to the flank at half the price, even though I have successfully prepared it myself many times. I did order it and was glad I took the initiave, a friend following suit and commenting on the flavour; meaty and umami.
Flank steak is a long, flat cut from the under belly of the cow, a muscle well exercised so that improper cooking would render it tough. It is very popular in France as the Bavette and is also sometimes known as London broil (which confusingly is a North American dish and unheard of in London, England). It's also a popular choice for fajitas, being often cooked whole on a barbecue, after a long soak in a typically Mexican marinade including cumin, oregano, lime juice and chili powder. This cut of beef is far better (and far more preferable) served medium rare to ensure tenderness. Over cooking renders it tough. So, not for you if you are an advocate of well done.
The marinade can be anything to tenderize and add flavour. For succulence, some sort of sweetener such as honey can be added, along with oil, a souring agent such as balsamic and herbs and spices. Typically, a few hours will be enough to give you a good, juicy steak. Without marinating, the steak loses lots of it's appeal, becoming tougher and a little bland.
The steak is fried whole over high heat, much the same as searing to seal, (although the effectiveness of this is open to debate). In China, however, this cut is usually used as a stir fry meat, cut into thin strips, especially in Cantonese cuisine. Maybe they have a special technique or secret marinade to ensure tenderness. I know most of the beef dishes I've eaten in Chinese restaurants have impressed with extra soft meat, although in Western Chinese restaurants we may use a different cut.
Frying or grilling whole produces a good caramelized crust with some intensity of flavour gathered in areas and those oh so wonderful crispy edges. You do require good ventilation for this steak, as any residue marinade is likely to burn and smoke alarmingly.
The other important thing to remember with this steak is that cutting against the grain is essential. Long, thin strips are desirable to allow the steak to stretch and open up the grain, thus becoming softer to eat.
Not much in the way of accompaniment is needed. A few greens, as above, a salad or some potatoes would provide all you need. I usually make a sauce from the marinade too, boiling it down with some water and a little stock or alcohol. It is usually extremely rich and only a teaspoon is needed, although you could add more water and reduce for a thinner sauce.
Recipe : Marinated flank steak (London broil)
There are endless possibilities for marinade choices inspired from the foods of other countries, although the cooking technique is the same. Below I will give you my Mexican, Korean and Greek inspired ideas, (by no means authentic, just an homage).
Marinade for 1 piece of flank steak, about 2 - 3 lbs (enough for 2 - 3 people)
Mexican inspired
1/4 cup oil
1/4 cup lemon or lime juice
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp hot chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion flakes
1 tsp salt
Korean inspired
1/4 cup peanut oil
1.5 tbsp Gochujang paste
1 tsp soy sauce
1/2 tsp sesame oil
1/2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
Greek inspired
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp garlic powder or 1 clove, minced or crushed
1 tsp honey
1 tsp mustard
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp paprika
For all marinades, mix together well, make some shallow cuts in the steak against the grain, place inside a zip loc bag and pour the marinade inside. Squidge the steak into the marinade and squeeze as much air out of the bag as possible. Seal the bag and refrigerate for several hours or even overnight.
When you are ready to cook the steaks, heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan over medium to high heat until hot. Turn on your cooker hood or open a window or door and place the steak in the pan. Be sure to wipe off as much of the marinade as possible to avoid a smoky kitchen and possible screeching smoke alarms. Fry the steak, undisturbed for about 5 - 6 minutes then turn over. Continue to cook for another 5 minutes or so and then turn again. The outside should be mahogany red with dark brown, caramelized edges. Remove to a plate and let rest wrapped in foil for 5 - 10 minutes.
Once rested, the steak can be sliced thinly against the grain. As I mentioned earlier, you can pour the marinade into a saucepan and add a little water to reduce down for a sauce.
Recipe : Tomato braised greens
1 tsp oil and 1 tsp butter
1 handful of Summer braising greens mix (kale, Asian greens etc).
6 stalks of broccolini
2 tomatoes, quartered (I used green zebra heirlooms)
3 mushrooms, sliced thinly
3 radishes, sliced thinly
Salt and pepper
Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan over medium heat and add the greens, tomatoes, broccoli and mushrooms. Stir fry together until the tomatoes start to soften and the greens wilted.
Add the radishes and season to taste with the salt and pepper. Stir well and serve.
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