Parsnip poutine

Often I have lovingly spoken about Poutine. A peculiar Montreal invention of fries with cheese curds and hot poultry or beef gravy poured on top. The gravy melts the cheese which becomes stringy, a little like mozzarella and coats the fries in a very satisfying way. The gravy is very strong and flavourful, a little on your jacket still very potent the next morning, which is apt because that is usually when you realise you've eaten it; after a night of drinking. There is nothing that fills the beer- induced hunger hole quite as well as poutine. Our local poutine shop: Fritz, is busiest after 12am on a Friday or Saturday when hoards of drunken revellers descend to eat this marvellous food. "Meeeediuum pouuuutinnnnne", Laaarge pouuuuutinne......"calls out the owner, probably knowing that the alcohol haze has deafened us somewhat.

Of course poutine is also loved by non-drunken patrons and is enjoyed as a meal in it's own right. (Google 'poutine' and you will find many a website highlighting the obsession some people have with this dish). Many restaurants serve their own version, sometimes fancified with truffle oil, short ribs, red wine jus or blue cheese curds. Each of these are good, but sometimes just a large bowl with salty fries soaked in a deeply savoury and meaty gravy, with stringy fresh, salty curds is all you need. Recently, I have been visiting a lot of pubs and restaurants, July being a very busy time in Vancouver and have seen many incarnations of this humble dish. I really needed to have some at home and thought about what could be substituted for the carbohydrate laden potato. 

 

 I have had some success with fried parsnip chips before and decided to give it a try. Slightly sweeter than potatoes, they have a lower carb content and a similar starchy, earthy flavour when fried. The cheese curds were also substituted with Caerphilly, which is supposed to be a crumbly, tart cheese, but the one I bought was moist enough to grate.

And for the poultry gravy? A lone packet of demi-glace sauce peeked up at me from the cupboard. So, what actually transpired was my own fancified poutine. Parsnip chips, sweet and earthy, Caerphilly, salty and tangy topped with a rich, red wine, beefy gravy. Before you think I've gone completely mad, you should try it. It really is one of the most comforting and satisfying things you will ever eat, whether you are drunk or just plain hungry.

Recipe : Parsnip poutine

3 parsnips, peeled and cut into fries

1 cup of oil for deep frying

1/2 cup sharp, crumbly cheese such as Caerphilly, Lancashire, Cheshire, Mexican Queso Freso, Feta or cheese curds.

1/2 cup strong poultry or beef gravy. I used a packet mix, you could make your own or buy a tub or packet and follow the instructions.

Pour the oil into a large pan, (ensuring the pan is no more than 1/3 full) and heat over medium heat.

When the oil seems hot, test by placing one fry in the oil. If it bubbles quite rapidly, the oil is ready. Place all the parsnip fries carefully into the oil and fry for around 15 - 20 minutes until they are brown and crispy.

Meanwhile, prepare your gravy and ensure it is piping hot. 

Remove the fries with a slotted spoon and drain on some kitchen towel. 

Place the fries on a plate, sprinkle the cheese on top and pour the piping gravy over everything.

 

Some winning variations from Vancouver restaurants and bars:

1 spring onion (scallion), chopped finely and sprinkled on top adds some refreshing contrast to the richness.

A few drops of truffle or lobster oil dashed over the top takes the poutine into a different, more luxurious direction.

Some short ribs, braised until falling apart, emphasizes the meaty qualities and turn this into more of a meal than a snack.

A few drops of cider vinegar and a shake or two of lemon pepper salt really help to cut through the slightly heavy gravy and add some acidic freshness. 

I have eaten this with red wine gravy which was good and little curds of salty, savoury blue cheese, which was odd.

Experiment and find your own tastes. As you can see in the picture above, we had ours with cold left over chicken and a little wild, spicy leafed salad, letting the hot gravy warm the chicken slightly.