Recently, at a restaurant, Neil had some corned beef with a vivid yellow condiment called Picalilli, or Picadilly as I used to call it. This is a British institution, both beloved and treated with indifference, even though it pronounces it's presence strongly. A regular feature on the Ploughman's lunch plate, Picalilli is a strong mustard and turmeric scented pickle, usually composed of cauliflower, courgette (zucchini) and carrot, although many other vegetables can be substituted. Neil enjoyed it so much with his corned beef, he asked me to make some, so I did, although it won't be ready to eat until Christmas, (which is perfect, as my mum would always make a big spread of cold meats and pickles for Christmas tea). Recipe at bottom of post
While I was at it and with a box of 12 new preserving jars just bought, I decided to try a few other recipes to give me that Nigella Lawson domestic goddess type feeling. Some people feel happy and content with a new purchase like a pair of shoes or a coat, (I do too, don't get me wrong), but I seem to glean most satisfaction and comfort from a new wooden spoon or a batch of heirloom tomatoes. If I have $20 in my pocket, I don't head to a cheap clothing store or a drugstore to get something to beautify myself, no, I go to a gourmet food store or a farmers' market. Wow, what an embarrassing confession to make.
I decided on three recipes from 2 preserving books : Indian spiced carrots and sauerkraut from 'Canning for a new generation' by Lianna Krissof (a book everybody seems to be talking about) and Picalilli from 'River cottage handbook no. 2 - Preserves' by Pam Corbin.
With the afore mentioned wooden spoon in my hand and the scent of spiced vinegar wafting not so delicately through the apartment, I felt happy, at peace, but also a little stressed, trying to cope with doing several things at once. The female persuasion of multi-tasking has never really been one of my strengths. Piccalilli, Sauerkraut and Indian spiced carrots were all bubbling away together, the start of my 'Quick, fill the shelves - it's Autumn' mantra, although the days of preserving being really necessary are well over.
The sauerkraut is an experiment in fermenting that is long overdue. You may wonder at how ridiculously easy it is to turn two simple ingredients such as cabbage and salt into something so complex, full of pleasantly sour flavours and acidic overtones. You may marvel at the fermentation process itself, the way bacterias from the air are attracted to it and begin the metamorphosis of change, you may be very impressed with the whole concept...until you taste it. Because the truth is, sauerkraut and it's famous Korean cousin: kimchee, are really good ole' rotten cabbage. Maybe I'm being a little flippant here, they are both wonderful foods, but it is true that they can be somewhat of an acquired taste.
I followed the simplest recipe I could find, eventually settling on 'small batch' sauerkraut, most recipes written to make five 1 pint jars, (for those long sea voyages to undiscovered continents perhaps)? I also used red cabbage because that's what I had and it is much, much prettier than the slightly yellowed variety.
I once watched a documentary about Captain Cook and his adventures to far off lands. To try and encourage the crew to eat some sort of vegetable on the long voyage, Cook had his chefs prepare vast quantities of sauerkraut, which, of course, keeps well and is packed full of vitamins. The crew wouldn't touch it and the only way they could be convinced to eat any at all, was through Cook and his other superiors being seen to enjoy it regularly themselves at the Captain's table. The crew soon followed suit believing this was some sort of delicacy, although the truth was that Cook and his fellow officers had to force it down themselves... Bet you can't wait to try this recipe now. Recipe at bottom of post
Indian pickled carrots need no gentle persuasion to be enjoyed. Unlike sour, almost yeasty tasting sauerkraut, they are tangy, savoury and spicy and pair well with a rich, creamy curry. The fragrance of the spices is intoxicating when they hit the hot oil and you know that the complex flavours will complement the sweetness of the carrots well. The use of the future tense here is appropriate as the one main virtue required for preserving is patience. The carrots take 4 days, the sauerkraut has to bubble and ferment for 10 days and the Picalilli has to be left alone in a dark, dry cupboard to pickle for at least 6 weeks. If this sounds agonizing to you, there are lots of quick pickle recipes you can find with immediate results. Try this one for Indonesian Acar. Recipe for carrot pickles at bottom of post.
There are quite a lot of rules and precautions to take when preserving to avoid spoilage and the unwelcome bad bacterias that may try to crash the party. There are many instructions on creating water baths, sterilizing, types of seals to use and so forth. If you are serious about making a hobby out of this, you really should read up on the basics.
The 3 recipes I'm featuring here don't need any fancy equipment or techniques. I use recycled jars as well as new ones, which should be washed and sterilized first, however, if you wash your dishes regularly in a dish washer, they will be sufficiently sterilized. Make sure the lids are really clean, because this is where bacteria can find a home. Scroll down below pictures for the recipes
Recipe : Small batch sauerkraut
Adapted from Canning for a new generation
Makes about 1 pint jar
1 medium size cabbage, cored and very finely shredded
1 tbsp salt
2 tsp caraway seeds (optional)
2 tsp dill seeds (optional)
Place the cabbage and salt in a bowl and squeeze with your hands until the cabbage begins to release juice.
Pack into a jar with the seeds sprinkled over and really push down so that the cabbage juice is almost at the top or covering the cabbage.
Either place another glass jar inside the larger one, (if you have one that fits), or fill a zip loc bag with water and place inside the jar, on top of the cabbage. The idea is to keep the cabbage immersed in it's own brine, (juices). See photo towards top of post
Let the cabbage sit for 10 days in it's brine, whereby it will ferment. Keep checking it, removing any scum that forms, but ensure it is submerged at all times.
After 10 days or when the cabbage stops bubbling, transfer the sauerkraut to a sterilized jar, seal and refrigerate. It is now ready to be eaten. Try it with some sausages and mustard or in a pulled pork sandwich, or as an accompaniment to a sausage an apple pie, as shown below.
Recipe : Indian carrot pickles
Adapted from Canning for a new generation
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch thick batons
3/4 tbsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tbsp mustard seeds, crushed
1/2 tbsp salt
1/4 tsp turmeric
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Juice of a lemon
Combine the carrots, red pepper flakes, mustard seeds, salt and turmeric in a bowl, stirring well.
heat the oil over a high heat for 30 seconds, then add the carrots and spices.
Cook, stirring with a dry spoon for 1 minute, the mixture will spit a little, so be careful.
Add the lemon juice and cook for another minute.
Transfer the carrots to a clean jar and pour the spiced oil over them, (it will only come about 1/4 of the way up). Cool to room temperature, then put on the lid and refrigerate.
Don't disturb for 4 days, then eat. (Use a dry spoon to get the carrots out as moisture will cause them to spoil). Eat with a curry, fluffy Basmati rice or as a pickle in a sandwich.
Recipe : Picalilli
Adapted from River Cottage Handbook no. 2 - Preserves
1/2 kg or just over 1lb of mixed vegetables. (I used cauliflower, carrots and zucchini), chopped into uniform, small dice.
1.5 tbsp salt
1 tbsp cornflour
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp English mustard powder
1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
1/2 tsp each ground cumin and coriander
300ml vinegar
150g sugar
1.5 tbsp honey
Place the vegetables in a bowl and sprinkle with the salt. Leave overnight, rinsing in cold water the next day and draining thoroughly.
Blend the cornflour, turmeric, mustard powder, mustard seeds, cumin and coriander to a smooth paste with a little of the vinegar.
Bring the rest of the vinegar to a boil with the sugar and honey in a pan.
Pour a little of the hot vinegar into the spice blend, then pour it all back into the pan.
Bring to the boil and boil for 3 - 4 minutes.
Remove from the heat and add the vegetables. Stir well to coat with the spiced vinegar mixture and pack into a large, sterilized jar. Seal with a vinegar proof lid and store for at least 6 weeks. This will keep for 1 year.
Serve with cold meats, cheeses and in sandwiches. This condiment is particularly good with corned beef. Be warned : this is a pungent, strong condiment, you may want to use it sparingly.
No comments:
Post a Comment