Things sometimes get amusing. People who assume fish and chips is the breakfast, lunch and dinner of Brits, or that fish and chips is the revered meal of our nation are wrong. Let's get one thing straight here though, this is my opinion. When cooked correctly, (like anything), fish and chips is wonderful, but so often, like any other 'national' dish, it suffers from a lack of quality in lieu of being simply rolled out for the tourists again and again. I have fond memories of eating fish and chips at the seaside, (with ozone in the air - as the reverent Nigel Slater eloquently states), with fish just harvested from the sea that morning. Sounds good, doesn't it? We all love the local, sustainable, fresh angle now. To be great, however, it's all about the batter.
It doesn't matter if the fish is the size of a small whale, super expensive Dover sole or even cheap and cheerful haddock, the batter that envelops it must be crispy, light and shatter slightly as you bite into it. For me, the fish must also be on the heavier, meaty side, such as salmon or halibut or with firm flakes like cod, but never slimy.
The chips are mildly controversial. Some advocate crispy, twice fried, others, including myself, don't mind a soft, almost soggy chip, they are only doused in vinegar anyway and the salt brings them to life no matter what state they are in. The vinegar itself always raises a few eyebrows. I prefer pickle vinegar, straight from a jar of pickled onions, the lid pierced with a few holes. Apple cider vinegar gives a nice fruity tang, but most people would say malt vinegar is the only acceptable option. Often here in Canada, we have to ask for it specifically, as only white vinegar is usually offered. I like a few dashes of soy sauce on my chips too, but now I'm really getting into troubled waters. One thing that puzzles and angers me is the application of vinegar onto the actual fish batter. Neil and his family do this. It makes it soggy, why spoil a good thing? Also, while I'm on the subject, don't ruin a good meal with mushy peas, what is the point? If you want an accompaniment, tartar sauce, a few lemon wedges or even ketchup are all that you need.
The batter
There are many opinions on how to prepare a good batter. Beer is a common added ingredient, the carbonated frothiness adding a light, airy texture and the taste adding a little ohh la la. Cornflour, or Japanese tempura batter are also a good choice for lightness, as is using ice cold water, sometimes even bottled mineral water with fizz, such as Pelligrino. The seasonings are usually on the simpler side. Salt is essential, everything else supplemental. A little paprika or chili powder would be a nice addition, adding a little colour and spice without overpowering the fish. The batter should be the consistency of whipping cream, maybe a little thicker. It should stick well to the fish and immediately start frying when it hits the hot oil.
The fish
Here you have many choices, however, it's best to stick to something with a little clout. You want the fish to withstand the battering and frying without disintegrating into small bitty pieces. As I mentioned earlier, a good meaty fish or one with firm flakes is desirable. Round fish such as halibut or turbot are luxurious, (in the UK), as is the more delicate Dover sole or John Dory. Monkfish, being an exceptionally meaty fish, sometimes roasted like a piece of meat, would require cooking before being battered to ensure it was cooked through without the batter becoming too dark. Skate is often used, but is a difficult fish to eat battered, as the flesh needs to be scraped from the bones.
In the UK, haddock and plaice were once commonly used, (now replaced with the cheaper and more plentiful coley or pollock), which all provide sweet flakes. They can, however, be a little slimy for my taste. Cod was once the fish of choice in Britain, with firm, sweet flakes, but of course now it is morally unsound and almost impossible to get any there, the poor creature having being fished almost to extinction. Salmon is a good choice either side of the pond and hits all the buttons for me. Firm, meaty, almost dense with good strong flavour and the added bonus of being pretty in pink.
The frying
Hot oil, 350oF. That's the rule, you know it. Some people fry twice, but there's no need as long as that oil is the magic temperature. In the UK, we generally don't rely on thermometers so much, instead adopting the Chinese chopstick or bread method also used for stir frying. When the oil is shimmering, either throw a small chunk of bread in or insert the tip of a wooden chopstick. If the bread starts to bubble quite rapidly straight away and browns in 30 seconds, you're there. Similarly, if your chopstick starts to gather bubbles around it immediately, like champagne, the oil is ready.
The chips
I cheated. At the risk of sounding like a do gooder and upsetting some purists, I admit I haven't made a chip for many years. When Neil and I first moved in together, we would make chips at least 3 times a week. They go with everything, it doesn't take much thought, they're cheap and they taste really good. But, they are not exactly healthy and for me, they became a lazy, unimaginative cop out. That being said, if consumed in moderation, they are still a treat. If you want to make the traditional chip, then you must consider a few things.
First, the potato. Choose a good floury variety, such as Yukon Gold in North America, (which is waxy, but it'll work), or King Edward or Maris Piper in the UK. Next, the size. You are not in a McDonalds, your chips should be chunkier than your average fry. This gives a more satisfying chip and is actually healthier, absorbing less fat. Which brings me to; the fat.
My mum and dad have a dedicated chip pan which lives under the sink. It's full of lard, which solidifies when cool and needs no refrigerating. Not only do they get chips that taste more savoury and flavourful, but also know the exact time to fry as the oil melts completely when hot enough. Not everyone would advocate this and it perhaps belongs to an older generation. Today, mainly oil is used, peanut particularly for it's high smoke point. Any vegetable oil would be appropriate, but you probably don't want to use that expensive extra virgin olive variety. For really decadent chips, duck or goose fat could be used, as is popular in France.
Finally, consider what kind of chip you want. Twice frying will give you a nice crisp, perhaps beginning with the oil at 330oF for 7 minutes or so and then a final blast at 350oF, until the chips are crispy and golden brown. Always drain well and sprinkle over a few flakes of sea salt while warm. I generally just fry the chips once, at 350oF or when the oil is ready until they are golden brown. They should be fluffy on the inside.
As I mentioned, for this recipe, I cheated. I roasted my chips in the oven, drizzled with oil and a little seasoning. I was trying to be good, but I wish I hadn't bothered and had just stuck with the original.
Recipes
Recipe 1 : The batter and fish
4 medium sized pieces of boneless, skinless white or other fish
2 tbsp flour
salt and pepper
1.5 cups all purpose or plain flour
1.5 tsp salt
1/4 tsp paprika or chili powder
1 regular sized bottle of beer or lager
3/4 cup oil
Mix the 1.5 cups flour, salt and paprika or chili powder together in a large bowl. Pour the beer in at an angle to avoid too much froth and mix well. The batter should resemble whipping or double cream. Add a little cold water or more beer if it seems too thick.
Dry the fish well and check there are no bones, pulling out any you may find. Season the fish and dust lightly with the flour, tapping off any excess.
Heat the oil to around 350oF in a large pan or deep fat fryer. (Use the tests mentioned above under 'the frying' if you don't have a thermometer).
Dip the fish pieces into the batter and immediately place them into the hot oil. Fry without bothering them too much for around 10 - 12 minutes depending on your fish thickness and type until they are golden brown and crisp. Remove, drain on paper towels and serve straight away with your chips and chosen accompaniments.
Recipe 2 : The chips (oven roasted - for traditional chips - see here)
3 medium sized potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 tbsp oil
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp paprika
Pre heat the oven to 400oF and place the chips on a non stick baking tray, (if you have one), in a single layer. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle the salt and paprika all over. Stir well in the tray to evenly coat with the oil and seasonings.
Bake in the oven for about 40 minutes until golden brown in patches and soft inside.
Recipe 3: Tartar sauce
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 small pickled gherkins, chopped finely or 2 tsp sweet cucumber relish
1 tsp capers, finely chopped
a small squeeze of lemon juice
1/2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped
Mix everything together and season with a little salt and pepper to taste.
Accompaniment ideas
1 lemon, cut in half. Squeeze the juice over the fish, although again, like vinegar, you will be making the batter soggy.
Mushy peas if you really must. I detest them but I can't deny they are popular.
Sometimes curry sauce or gravy is poured over the chips. Again, don't pour any over my fish or I'm asking for a refund. This is fairly popular in some places, but I don't recommend it.
Tomato sauce to dip your chips into. Fairly acceptable.
Some people say pickled onions are popular. I don't know anyone who participates in this, although the pickle juice makes fine vinegar.
A light sprinkling of lemon pepper over your salted and vinegared chips is a nice touch.
A few pieces of bread and butter would be absolutely essential for some people. The chip sandwich is always popular.
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