I've often spoken about the fact that I'm not the biggest fan of Italian food. If I'm truthful, part of it may be a reaction against the obsession for it here. I wonder what the Italians think about the North American love affair with their cuisine? Do they love North American food equally? Somehow I don't think so. Jamie Oliver's Italian adventure TV show was a bit more honest about Italian food in that pragmatic British way. Instead of just literally passing out with orgasmic joy and exhorting the virtue of everything he tasted, he presented a more complete picture, also highlighting the downfalls and faults of the Italian attitude to food, commenting specifically on their refusal to try, (and even expressing their disgust) at anything that wasn't their Nonna's recipe. It was refreshing to watch and a welcome change from the endless descriptions of just how gooood the gelato, the pizza and the pasta is, complete with host rolling their eyes with pleasure and pronouncing everything in a fake Italian accent. More pahsta please.
Here, like anywhere, there is a healthy and robust mission to discover the new Italian restaurant of the moment. If that new hot spot also happens to serve authentic Italian pizza, the mission has been successfully completed and there will be a line of people willing to wait over an hour every Friday and Saturday to sample the miraculous bread product. (For the record, I've never understood this. I've probably participated in this strange ritual once, at a new, fashionable Chinese restaurant for my birthday. The fact that I was already half drunk on beer and the giddiness of having a local TV celebrity stand next to us for the 45 minutes probably helped, although we whispered complaints to each other throughout the entire time).
I have to admit, as far as pizza is concerned, the stamp of authenticity that is so widely desired is justified. Neapolitan pizza, hailed as the authentic, has certain specifications that are safeguarded by the 'Verace Pizza Napoletana association', such as the tomatoes used and the type of flour, see here.
Oddly enough, the only place I have ever eaten the genuine article was in Kuta, Bali, in a swanky, minimalist Italian restaurant, all white deco with green hanging plants reaching down to the floor and not some little, noisy, chaotic joint in Naples itself. I remember it was exceptional and even realising then that less is definitely more if the ingredients are the best quality you can find.
Of course, this recipe does not use San Marzano tomatoes, grown on the volcanic plains South of Mount Vesuvius or mozzarella di bufala Campana, made with the milk from water buffalo raised in the marshlands of Campania, (are they making this stuff up)? but, it does hold true to the principals. Thin, crispy base, a rich tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil.
Recipe : Neapolitan pizza (NOT authentic)
Crust recipe:
1 package of active dry yeast (about 1 tbsp)
1/4 cup warm water
1 tsp sugar
1 and 1/4 cups water
3.5 cups white bread flour (OO would be the best)
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Place the 1/4 cup warm water into a jug or bowl and sprinkle the yeast on top. Mix well and then add the sugar. Mix again and set aside for about 5 - 10 minutes.
After this time, the mixture should have increased in volume and become foamy. If it doesn't, you may have dead yeast and will have to try again with a new package.
Place the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl and add the yeast mixture, the water and oil. Mix together well with your hands until you have a ball of dough that is neither too sticky or falling apart, (add more water or flour as needed). It should leave the bowl fairly clean when it is the right consistency.
Remove from the bowl and knead on a floured surface, stretching and pounding with your knuckles for about 10 minutes. This is time consuming and can make your wrists hurt, but it is necessary and will give you a better pizza, so time yourself, think of an enemy and go for it! When the dough is sufficiently smooth and elastic, place it back into the bowl, (spread a little oil inside first), cover with a tea towel and store in a warm area for about 1.5 - 2 hours until it has doubled in size.
Once the dough is ready, punch it down with your fist and knead again for another 5 minutes, (not so long this time). All this kneading and rising will help your dough become light and airy and thin and crispy once baked.
Let it rise again for about 30 minutes and then it's finally ready.
Recipe : Tomato sauce
a little oil (Extra virgin is best)
1 can of plum tomatoes (San Marzano if you can find them)
1 tsp of dried oregano
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper
1/2 tbsp fresh basil, torn into small pieces
Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat and add the tomatoes, oregano and bay leaf. Reduce heat to low and let simmer for about 40 minutes until thick and fragrant. Crush the tomatoes with your wooden spoon and add the salt and pepper to taste and the basil. Stir well and remove from the heat. Let cool slightly.
For the pizza:
dough
tomato sauce
Other ingredients:
1 tbsp oil
10 small tomatoes, sliced
1 ball of mozzarella cheese, sliced quite thinly
1 tbsp fresh basil, torn into pieces
Preheat the oven to 475oF
If you have a pizza stone or pizza baking dish, roll your pizza dough to about a 1/4 inch thick on a floured surface and cover the stone or dish. If you don't have one, anything fairly flat will suffice. (I used to use a shallow baking dish turned upside down and placed the pizza on top). If the dish is not non stick, lightly oil and flour first. Brush the dough all over with the oil, then spread with the tomato sauce evenly. Dot the tomatoes all around, followed by the mozzarella and the basil, sprinkling a little oil over the basil to prevent it burning. Bake for about 12 - 15 minutes until the mozzarella is melted and golden in patches and the crust is cooked through and crisped.
No comments:
Post a Comment