Monday, 17 September 2012

The simple omelette - not so simple


Since Lilac came along, Neil and I have found ourselves falling into a cliche, (one we can handle). "What shall we do for dinner"? is now a question to furrow brows. It's not that we're unable to cook, we are equally sharing all responsibilities, so we have the time, it's just that we're also in the middle of moving apartment, which means the cooking gear is gradually being packed away and we are left with the bare minimum. Elizabeth David, the esteemed British cookery writer, always stated that an omelette and a glass of wine was all you really needed to sustain yourself, not just satisfactorily, but luxuriously too. This is because a really good omelette is a thing of beauty and skill, chefs testing new employees by their omelette making prowess alone.



Feeding a baby, of course, presents no such dilemma for now.  I often wonder if they get bored of milk, much as Neil and I wondered if she was bored in the womb for 9 months. Like a baby, making a good omelette requires time and know how, although it's not so much a miraculous, instinctive process as a few good rules of technique to learn and follow.

1. The pan. Many would argue that a well seasoned cast iron pan that has been handed down from generation to generation is absolutely necessary. I'm sure it is, but I don't have one and if you want to make an omelette you can successfully turn over without leaving a sticky mess, a non stick will do for me thanks.

2. The eggs. Free range, organic. 3 seems to be the acceptable norm, whisked with a little milk if required, perhaps a few herbs and definitely salt and pepper. The little creature above took one, although it was 38 years old, not a good idea for an omelette.

3. The oil and butter. About a tbsp of oil and a tsp of butter is my mantra. The butter gives the best flavour, but has a tendency to burn unless mixed with oil.

4. The technique. Here we come to the nitty gritty. I have often read how the perfect omelette is achieved. The temperature of the pan, the forming of a skin, the stirring and the folding are all part of the ultimate omelette experience. Let the butter foam on fairly high temperature, add the eggs, stirring from the centre constantly and tipping the pan to distribute more molten egg to the edges until a skin begins to form on the underside. Reduce the temperature, keep stirring and then fold over twice to encase partially liquid egg inside and slide onto a plate. Add a little cheese before folding if you like. Easy. 

I used to wonder why all the stirring? The slightly lumpy and ribbony texture that it produces is an attractive feature of an omelette apparently and I have to admit it does work.


My own technique for making an omelette is somewhat simper. Basically, pour it in, make sure it doesn't stick and fold carefully. The flavourings are what I concentrate on. Lots of grated Cheddar or Gruyere, a few sprinkles of dried oregano or even fresh herbs, finely chopped. Some flavoured salt, (that stuff you can buy with lots of pretty speckles and flower petals mixed in always makes me smile) and freshly ground black pepper. The desirable runny interior is inevitable if you fold the omelette instead of turning over and allowing the bottom to cook, but for a while I couldn't stomach any type of runny egg, but now I sort of like it, especially when the cheese has melted and produced a gooey sauce inside. So, here's my recipe for the omelette, both humble and magnificent. My recipe for baby Lilac remains a secret.

Recipe : Omelette
3 organic, (preferably), free range eggs, beaten in a bowl
a little splash of milk, (optional)
a few good twists of salt and pepper
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1/4 cup grated cheese
1 tsp extra virgin olive oil and 2 tsp butter

Melt the oil and butter in a frying pan over medium to high heat until hot and foamy. Add the salt and pepper and oregano to the eggs, along with the milk, if using and pour into the pan. Immediately start to stir the eggs from the centre, allowing more liquid egg to run into the edges by tilting the pan. As soon as a skin begins to form on the bottom side, sprinkle over the cheese and fold the omelette onto itself two times from the edge to form a nice Swiss roll shape. If your pan is non stick this will be easy, if not, you will undoubtedly be left with scrambled egg as you try to dislodge it, (still tastes good, just not so pretty). Slide onto a plate and serve straight away.




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