Trout baked with lemon and herbs

 

I have an uncle in Wales who used to fish for trout and keep rabbits in the back garden. I have memories of trout baked with lots of garlic, enough to firmly announce it's presence as you walked through the door. As for the rabbits, it's strange how memories can trick you, just as Leonard in Momento says : "Memory's not even that good", because I seem to recall watching my uncle skin one of those rabbits in the kitchen, but I can't be sure. Probably his never ending teasing of me in regards to what those rabbits were for has planted this image in my head.

Whatever the truth is, he definitely ate them, he was not the kind of man who would keep fluffy bunnies because he thought they were cute. He also had an allotment with a vicious chicken and two memorable dogs. One was a German Shepherd who wanted to kill me once, baring his fangs and barking loudly, whilst I tried to squeeze myself, terrified, behind the sofa. The other was a gentle and sweet Bedlington Terrier called Flash, who looked exactly like a lamb once he'd been bathed and dried. Now I come to think of it, this man was pretty self sufficient for those days, (or these days even). He kept his own chickens, which he (definitely) killed himself, collected the eggs, kept rabbits, fished for trout and grew a plethora of vegetables that I remember growing proudly in the garden and allotment. Runner beans, cabbages and other such healthy delights. He even had a greenhouse full of cucumbers and tomatoes. All this I only remember and realize now and yet.... more memories are coming to me of another uncle who also had a huge back garden and a greenhouse. He made his own fishpond out of a sunken bath tub.....Stories for another time.

 

Back to the trout. I love pink fish, even after hating it as a child. Trout because of the association with too much garlic as explained above and salmon because I only ever had it from a tin, oily and smelly. Now, all that's changed. A huge piece of trout for sale at my local shop is a treat not to be missed. Arctic Char seems to be quite fashionable in Vancouver's finest restaurants right now, also closely related to trout and salmon in the fish family known as salmonidae. I ate it last year in such a restaurant, braised in butter and served with a white wine and cream sauce. I had no idea what I was ordering and was surprised but pleasantly so, to see pink flakes instead of white.

I decided to cook the trout simply, just with oil, lemon slices and herbs, seasoned well. But to accompany, I wanted to use this piece of sharp blue cheese I got from the farmers' market and make something with more guts to contrast with the fish's delicate flavour.

Melted down with butter, it makes a simple, strong flavoured sauce which can also be used as a frying medium.

The butter and cheese don't quite amalgamate, separating slightly into oil and water, like clarifying butter, but they still retain an amazingly sharp and pungent taste which I used to fry the green vegetables in.

If this looks familiar, it's because I'm using the last of the produce I bought last week. The trinity of asparagus, broccolette and baby bok choy has featured in nearly every meal we've eaten this week.

I popped a few pieces of the home made preserved lemons I made to sharpen the ultra rich butter and cheese sauce. It worked well, even though the lemon was incredibly salty and sharp.

The trout. Before baking ........

.........And after.

Recipe : Trout baked with lemon and herbs

1 piece of trout (about 3/4 - 1 lb in weight)

1 lemon, sliced finely

3 tsp olive oil

1 handful chopped mixed fresh herbs (I used fennel, thyme and rosemary).

A good sprinkling of salt and a good few twists of black pepper.

Preheat the oven to 400oF

Lay the trout on a baking dish, drizzle over the oil, lay the lemon slices on top and then the herbs.

Season with the salt and pepper and wrap the baking dish in tin foil.

Bake in the oven for about 25 minutes until firm, meaty and cooked through. Remove the herbs before eating.

Optional extras (To be added before baking)

For a Chinese touch sprinkle over some crushed garlic, finely chopped ginger and 1 tsp soy sauce and Chinese wine or dry sherry, maybe even some beansprouts.

Add some chili powder or paprika and 1 sliced tomato.

Cover the fish with sliced onions, leeks and chives.

Add a few sprigs of dill and some capers.

Recipe : Green vegetables with blue cheese butter sauce

1 cup mixed green vegetables such as asparagus, broccolette, baby bok choy, spinach, cabbage etc.

2 tbsp butter (unsalted)

2 tbsp blue cheese 

1/2 tsp chopped preserved lemon (optional) or a few drops lemon juice

Briefly blanch the vegetables in boiling water for a few moments, (2 minutes in the microwave) until they are bright green and still firm. Drain well.

Heat the butter and blue cheese together in a frying pan over medium heat until melted. Turn the heat down to low and add the vegetables. 

Stir and let everything cook very gently, stirring occasionally until the vegetables have wilted. Add the lemon if using and serve, pouring the sauce over the vegetables.